Steak au poivre and frites at Bar Lou.
Mariah Green
Montecito is known for money, not modishness. But two newly opened spots — a restaurant as well as a cocktail bar, situated at opposite ends of the main drag, Coast Village Road — are bringing big-city ambition to the oft-hidebound small town.
Lion’s Tale, from a husband-and-wife pair behind several drinks-focused venues in Santa Barbara, is in the historic Montecito Inn founded by Charlie Chaplin and Fatty Arbuckle. It’s inspired by the iconic lobby lounges of London, particularly at The Connaught and The Savoy. Expect the dry martini to remain chilled — it’s served pre-batched, pre-diluted and pre-frozen — while the bar’s eponymous rendition of the classic lion’s tail cocktail features a New Britannia twist: “Ours is a nod to modern London, with a blended vadouvan curry-infused scotch,” explains co-owner Brandon Ristaino.
The partners behind the industry favorite Little Dom’s in Los Feliz — who a few years ago expanded with a Little Dom’s Seafood just down the 101 freeway from Montecito in Carpinteria — have now debuted Bar Lou. It’s in a prominent craftsman that’s been carefully refurbished and lit for maximal throwback comfort. (The many leather booths, and much else, have been worked over by a veteran Hollywood production designer who dinged, dented and beat up the decor so it felt lived-in from day one.)
Chef Brandon Boudet is loosely interpreting the South of France by way of Montecito’s neighboring farmers and purveyors as well as the area’s long-standing reputation as the “American Riviera.” This means dialed-in spaghettini topped with lobes of sea urchin harvested a few miles away, or locally caught halibut and branzino served with an amandine preparation.
“Everything about this place is really considered,” says operating partner Warner Ebbink, who along with Boudet is next focused on a Oaxacan concept not far away at Ojai’s soon-to-open Hotel El Roblar, the historic lodging being revamped by longtime hospitality impresario — and Tiger King and Chimp Crazy documentarian — Eric Goode. “Montecito deserves it.”
This story appeared in the Jan. 3 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.