Jimmy Fallon on a Decade of ’12 Days of Christmas Sweaters’: “They’re Beautiful Fashion-y Art Pieces Now”

‘Tis the season of giving and The Tonight Show host Jimmy Fallon loves a surprise — especially when it comes to the show’s long-running “12 Days of Christmas Sweaters” giveaway, which began during his Late Night years.

“Whenever [Fallon] walks by, he turns the other way — we’re like, ‘Hide that sweater!’” says longtime The Tonight Show costume designer Mario Martines. Each year, he plays the role of Santa leading a workshop of holiday elves — i.e., an in-house team of four, including assistant Erin Byrne — who make the knit creations.

Over the span of the dozen “12 Days of Christmas Sweater” episodes, an audience member is selected at random to receive, on camera, one of Martines’ fantastical creations. This year marks a decade of the spirited tradition, which kicked off on Dec. 7 with a sparkling snowy knit, adorned with custom-printed fairies, sprites and two Santas flying through the air.

“I wanted vintage elves from the ‘60s and ‘70s,” explains Martines, who took inspiration from retro greeting cards. The winner, Maria, visiting from Colombia, stayed happily bundled in the lively pullover during the entire taping. In between sets, she even eagerly asked audience warm-up comedian Seth Herzog about the creative process.

The answer is that the team immediately begins working on the next year’s whimsical, elaborate and often-battery-powered knits the day after Christmas. Each piece can take upwards of three months to design and build — and Martines aims to outdo himself every season. “I treat every year like it’s the 10th anniversary,” he tells The Hollywood Reporter. “I just set the bar higher and higher for myself.” 

Fallon, a self-proclaimed “fashion victim” for a seasonal statement piece, agrees. “By the last one, there’s drones flying around or lasers coming out of it,” he says. Fallon recalls past interactive, multi-dimensional inventions, featuring ingenious elements like wafts of potpourri-scents and an iPad centerpiece framing a roaring fireplace video-loop. “One was a giant snow globe that turned on, and snow blew around,” he adds.

For each one-of-a-kind gift, Martines (who previously designed an upcycled fashion line) combines multiple sweaters, whether vintage, thrifted or contemporary, to concoct fanciful silhouettes, from a candy-cane patterned fringed cape to an avant-garde empire-waist and bubble-hemmed tree ornament that could have walked the Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture runway.

“They’re beautiful fashion-y art pieces now,” says Fallon. To further bring his magical motifs to life, Martines incorporates a wonderland of glittering embellishments: sequins, beading, original artwork and tactile trimmings.

“This one is called ‘Cher-Settia,’” says Martines, referencing a photo of the icon and recent The Tonight Show guest in a dazzling blue sequined gown, with an oversize flower on the bodice, and matching head-piece. “I tried to emulate the off the shoulder, which I thought was funny,” he adds, pointing to the silver rhinestone-dotted flesh-tone neckline, atop shimmering fuschia. An oversize poinsettia blooms toward the neckline, culminating in a flourishing choker.

Martines’ imagination knows no earthly boundaries, as exhibited through an extraterrestrial-themed black lamé jumper that represents a starlit sky. A duo of plush green, and Santa hot-pant-wearing, aliens peeks up over both shoulders from the back, while a vibrantly colorful UFO hovers above. “The eyes light up,” says Martines, giddily, while gesturing toward “three beams of lights” streaming down from the spacecraft.

But the job’s not all fun and games for Martines and his team. They meticulously ensure each sweater is straightforward for any audience member to nimbly don, by incorporating stretch, flexible necklines and even magnetic closures, in lieu of cumbersome buttons. They give each one an initial test run, and familiarize the NBC page, assisting Fallon, with all the unique intricacies. “Although, sometimes Jimmy thinks it’s funny when [putting it on is] awkward,” says Martines.

Fallon remembers one unintentional physical comedy occasion. “I’m like squeezing a sleeve over someone’s head,” he says, with a laugh. But the unexpected and spontaneous moments are always worth it for everyone involved, whether Martines and his Santa’s workshop or The Tonight Show host himself.

“It’s like being a little kid,” says Fallon. “And you’re opening up a Christmas present every episode between now and Christmas.”