Men Broke All of Hollywood’s Red Carpet Rules in 2023

With credit surely partly due to the “Timothée Chalamet effect,” menswear hit new levels of creativity and expressiveness this year. “There’s a sense of zero fucks given,” says stylist Michael Fisher (who last year made tailored skirts a red carpet staple on client Oscar Isaac).

The risk-taking and loosening up of silhouettes, say stylist duo Wayman + Micah comes down to the fact that “the men in Hollywood just want to have just as much fun with looks, not to mention the trends of androgyny and unisexual dressing in our culture having an influence on acceptability.”

Flaunting Sheer

Instead of an obvious no-shirt approach, many male stars embraced sultry layering by pairing suits and sweaters with sheer shirts.

“You’re still getting body but not overt body,” says stylist Fisher, whose client Tom Blyth (The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds & Snakes) wore a gossamer AMI Paris tank with cardigan in November.

The trick also augments a polished suit, like Nicholas Galitzine’s mesh peeking out from an embellished Fendi jacket, styled by Felicity Kay, or Oliver Jackson-Cohen’s suit and AMI Paris top at the British Independent Film Awards.

More formal but just as steamy, Cillian Murphy, styled by Rose Forde, smoldered in a sheer button-down under a Saint Laurent suit for Oppenheimer’s London premiere.

Reimagined Suits

Suiting in 2023 remained tailored but burst out of the box in shapes, adornments and innovation.

At the GQ Man of the Year party, Colman Domingo stood out in a cream Boss suit with a duster jacket and a longline shawl collar. “Colman wears these modern suit silhouettes with such confidence, and we know when we show him something that feels outside of the box, he is always willing to take risks,” say his stylists Wayman + Micah.

Styled by Samantha McMillan for the May December L.A. premiere, Charles Melton caused whiplash in a double-wide-leg Balenciaga suit, which inventively meshed the skirt and oversized trends.

Romeo Beckham supported the premiere of his father David Beckham’s Netflix documentary in a playfully refined Louis Vuitton suit, by the late Virgil Abloh, with a streamlined wrap-front, buttonless jacket and pleated oversize trousers. “I loved that it was baggy and wasn’t so traditional, yet, it was a suit,” says stylist Cheryl Konteh.

Stylist and Anonymous Content manager Jeanne Yang enjoys piling on the florals, boutonnieres and jewelry, like Taika Waititi’s Cartier pearls accenting his extended Prabal Gurung tuxedo at the Met Gala. “You’re just going to see a lot more accessorization,” predicts Yang.

Idris Elba is broadening the customary definition of a suit by teasing looks from his upcoming Eve of Winston menswear line: jewel-toned, tunic-like matching sets with ornamentation-like pleated panels and intricate necklines. “It’s inspired by Idris’ African heritage and a traditional suit,” says Konteh, his stylist and co-designer.

The Right to Bare Arms

Glorious biceps and delts reigned, not just to stay cool (literally and figuratively) but also to communicate themes.

At the European premiere of Barbie in July, Yang — co-styling with Chloe Takayanagi and Ella Rose Harrington — dressed Simu Liu as a “modern Ken” in Fendi’s Spring 2024 floral-embroidered set with a collegiate sweater flourish.

For the latest Mission: Impossible premiere, Top Gun: Maverick actor Danny Ramirez revealed his guns with a vest paired with jewelry. “We loved the idea of Danny wearing this gorgeous Wales Bonner sleeveless vest with a [David Yurman] brooch to a big action film because it felt genderless and modern,” say Wayman + Micah.

Lee Pace’s armor-like Prada leather vest with Balenciaga pants leaned into his brawny physicality in the sci-fi series Foundation. “He wanted to do a tongue-in-cheek moment,” says Fisher, who also considers practicality and locale for all his arm-baring clients. “Doing sleeveless in Berlin seems a little thirsty, but doing sleeveless in Los Angeles seems a little bit more climate appropriate.”

Comforting Sweaters

Knitwear — which offers an unconventional yet cozily familiar alternative to a blazer or coat — went viral in 2023.

Saltburn and Priscilla heartthrob Jacob Elordi continued his charm offensive on The Kelly Clarkson Show in a baby-chick yellow Prada sweater. “The color was really the star. It definitely took the look a step forward,” says Wendi Ferreira of styling duo Wendi and Nicole. Pairing the soft knit with slouchy Saint Laurent jeans and a chest-revealing Hanes tank felt “super approachable and almost more intimate,” she adds.

Earlier in the year, Pedro Pascal, promoting The Mandalorian, kicked off the Sweater Daddy phenomenon, first in a cognac Acne Studios waffle-knit cardigan over a gray Hanes tank paired with red trousers. Then, he channeled crush-worthy teacher in full Gucci with a marigold sweater slung around his shoulders. “Opting for knitwear in different fits and colors felt fresh and previously unseen but also relatable to a wide audience. It’s been fun to see how much of an impact it’s had on people,” says his stylist Julie Ragolia, who’s also worked with Riz Ahmed and LaKeith Stanfield. “I enjoy breaking the internet for my clients.”

For Micheal Ward (Empire of Light), Konteh contrasted argyle and windowpane checks in a Burberry ensemble. She compares the look to a “sharp suit — the patterns are incredibly strong.” 

Statement Shorts

While still surprising, shorts now meet the red carpet dress code.

Exhibit A-plus: Pascal’s custom Valentino Met Gala ensemble revealing black hot pants under a red overcoat. “I don’t like convention, so I will often do things to challenge or bend the status quo,” says Ragolia. “Plus, Pedro looked sexy and felt great.”

For a Barbie premiere, the new Doctor Who Ncuti Gatwa made waves, also styled by Kay, in sparkling silver custom Valentino short-shorts topped with a flowing cape.

The Gilded Age’s Morgan Spector made an impression in a skater boi meets robber baron Kenzo Spring 2024 look. “We wanted to pay homage to Morgan’s dapper character Mr. Russell and find a fresh and contemporary spin,” says stylist Bailey Moon, relishing in the “juxtaposition” of the baby blue ensemble’s tailored elements and the flash of “shin” between the athletic socks and board shorts.

However, Aaron Jackson and Josh Sharp went furthest in embracing this year’s pantless street style rage in Loewe at the premiere of Dicks: The Musical. The movie’s writer-stars envisioned a “gay Dumb and Dumber,” which Fisher happily obliged. “The Loewe was perfect. It’s twins. It’s stupid. It’s fun,” says the stylist, who dressed them in the label’s crushed velvet sweatshirts paired with slouchy ankle boots. “I knew they would be the ones to try it.”

A version of this story first appeared in the Dec. 15 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.